A Charleston Interlude of Gardens, Grandeur, and Grace - The Inn at Middleton Place
- Ingrid Lemme
- 2 days ago
- 6 min read
Updated: 1 day ago
Escape from Paradise with Ingrid Lemme Chalut
The Middleton Place Plantation in South Carolina
Published on April 28th, 2026 in the May issue of The Montauk Sun, in print from The Hamptons to Manhattan and online at MontaukSun.com -- Edited by John Lomitola
There are moments in travel when everything aligns so effortlessly that the experience feels almost curated by something beyond us. Our stay at Middleton Place began with a simple search for a two-night stay in Charleston, South Carolina. That’s when we discovered, about a half-hour drive from Charleston's historic districts, The Inn at Middleton Place. Once we learned of its fascinating history—and that it had recently joined the Salamander Collection—we were sold.
Salamander Collection is a privately owned and operated company based in Middleburg, Virginia. Founded by noted entrepreneur and philanthropist Sheila C. Johnson in 2005, the company owns, manages and develops hotels, resorts and inns that reflect the authenticity and character of their surrounding environment.
It was close to 80 degrees when we arrived, a perfect Southern welcome. Check-in was warm and unhurried, immediately setting the tone for what this 65-acre award-winning property does so well: understated luxury rooted in nature, privacy, and a deep sense of place. It was one of those rare, golden Lowcountry afternoons in late March—soft air, lingering light, and an irresistible invitation to be outdoors.
Our accommodations felt less like a traditional hotel room and more like a private retreat tucked into the landscape. The architecture is intentionally minimalist—concrete, wood, and glass—designed to frame, not compete with nature. Floor-to-ceiling windows opened the room to the outdoors, as if the Ashley River and surrounding woods had become part of our living space. Inside, the palette was quiet: natural textures, clean lines, and a wood-burning fireplace that added warmth. Nothing felt excessive. Every element was deliberate. The luxury was in the surroundings.
After unpacking, we wandered across the lawn to a small gathering space where guests meet for late afternoon drinks and light bites. Casual and social, we shared a few simple plates, chatted with fellow travelers, and discovered the pleasure of pickled okra—a Southern staple that proved both tangy and unexpectedly addictive.
Soon after, we set out in search of the Inn’s famed gardens and stepped into something extraordinary. Lucky for us, the azaleas were in full bloom—not just scattered clusters, but sweeping, old-growth plantings cascading over hillsides and lining the paths. Shades of pink, coral, red, and white blended together, while Spanish moss hung above like a soft canopy. The late afternoon light made everything glow.
Walking further, Middleton Place revealed its depth. This is not simply a garden, but a designed landscape dating back to the 1740s—the oldest landscaped gardens in America. Inspired by European principles yet softened by the natural Lowcountry terrain, terraces guide the eye, water reflects the sky, and every movement feels intentional.
Along the way, we came upon the Spring House, built in 1741—a quiet, almost hidden structure where underground springs once kept food cool before refrigeration. Inside, original brick basins still hold gently flowing water. Crocks remain where they once sat centuries ago. It is simple engineering, quietly brilliant.
Further along, the path opened to one of the property’s most remarkable living landmarks: the Middleton Oak. Estimated to be between 900 and 1,000 years old, it predates everything around it—long before the plantation, long before the country itself. Its massive limbs stretch outward, low and wide, some now supported to prevent collapse. Standing beneath it, time feels different—not distant, but alive.
By the next morning, temperatures had dropped nearly 30 degrees—a fleeting reminder of spring’s unpredictability. We lingered over a long, hot shower, followed by strong coffee in bed as morning light spilled across our king bed in a river-view suite.
Breakfast, just steps from our accommodations, was generous and thoughtfully prepared: scrambled eggs, crispy bacon, sausages, hash browns, and fresh pastries displayed in wooden cases. Small jars of honey and preserves added a personal touch. Nothing overdone—just comforting, well-prepared food in a peaceful setting.
We later stopped at the welcome building near the horse corral, where we met General Manager Mark Solomon. Friendly and generous with his time, he shared insights on several must-see areas we had yet to discover.
When we mentioned afternoon tea, his recommendation was immediate: The Bennett Hotel on King Street. As he explained, it is the Inn’s sister property—acquired by the Bennett family just over a year ago—offering a completely different expression of Southern hospitality.
From there, we continued exploring Middleton Place from the public entrance—distinct from the Inn, which sits quietly apart along the Ashley River. The historic Middleton Place itself unfolds as both garden and living museum. But this is where the experience deepens.
Beyond the beauty lies the full story.
Paths lead to the former slave quarters and the exhibit “Beyond the Fields,” which brings into focus the lives of the more than 2,800 enslaved men, women, and children who lived and worked here across generations. Walking through these spaces, the tone shifts. The landscape remains beautiful—but the meaning becomes layered.
You begin to understand the skill, labor, and resilience that sustained the plantation.
The working farm adds another dimension.
Sheep graze quietly. Chickens move freely. Horses and mules stand nearby. These are not decorative elements; they reflect the agricultural systems that once defined daily life here. Inside the workshops, that life becomes even more tangible. Demonstrations of blacksmithing, carpentry, and brick-making reveal the level of expertise required. These were not simply laborers—they were highly skilled individuals whose knowledge shaped the success of the plantation.
It changes your perspective.
You no longer walk through gardens alone. You walk through history—both its beauty and its cost.
Every stay includes complimentary access to Middleton Place, a National Historic Landmark encompassing 65 acres of formal gardens, living history exhibits, and a curated selection of daily guided experiences, including Beyond the Fields, garden tours, and Meet the Heritage Breeds.
After an eye-opening morning, we made our way into Charleston’s historic district for a completely different kind of experience—afternoon tea at The Bennett Hotel on King Street. A sister property to the Inn, yet entirely different in tone. Where Middleton Place is quiet and rooted in nature, the Bennett is refined and polished.
Afternoon tea here is more than a meal—it is an experience shaped by ritual, detail, and artistry. Tiered trays arrive, each level thoughtfully composed: delicate finger sandwiches, warm scones with house-made preserves, and pastries that feel almost sculptural. The balance of flavor and precision is striking. Deviled eggs topped with caviar offer a playful yet luxurious nod to Southern tradition. Meeting the chef and pâtissier adds a layer of human connection, elevating the experience beyond indulgence. A personal visit from General Manager Marty Hall further reflects the hotel’s philosophy—hospitality that is both intentional and genuinely felt.
Returning to Middleton Place that evening brought us gently back to stillness. The Inn’s restaurant was lively and well loved. Under Executive Chef Caleb Hulsey, the cuisine reflects both place and season with confidence.
We began with she-crab soup—rich, creamy, and deeply Southern—paired with warm rolls and honey butter. Marcus chose the cold-smoked duck, balanced and refined, while I opted for the shrimp and grits, a Lowcountry classic executed with precision and depth of flavor. Dessert was chocolate ganache cream—structured yet light—topped with fresh whipped cream and raspberries. Service elevated the experience: Lucy, the restaurant manager since age 15, was warm and natural; Ryan, our waiter, attentive without intrusion.
And then, once again, the walk back.
That night, the gardens revealed another dimension. Soft lighting traced the pathways, shadows deepened beneath the trees, and the air cooled, carrying the quiet sounds of the river. Walking back to our suite felt dreamlike—still, hushed, and deeply atmospheric. It was as if the gardens held a second life after sunset. theinnatmiddletonplace.com
Charleston offers many experiences. But it is places like these—where architecture, landscape, history, and hospitality intertwine—that stay with you long after you leave.
Until next month, from another interesting destination.
Yours in travel— Ingrid
Ingrid Lemme-Chalut
Travel Journalist & Publisher
Escape From Paradise | The Montauk Sun
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