Savannah — A Southern Journey

Ingrid Lemme
Jun 3
5 min read

Updated: Jun 4

Escape from Paradise with Ingrid Lemme-Chalut

Savannah, Georgia -- Where History, Hospitality and Southern Charm Meet

Published later this fall in The Montauk Sun, in print from Montauk, through The Hamptons, to Manhattan and online at MontaukSun.com -- Edited by John Lomitola

Savannah, Georgia, has a way of slowing you down almost immediately.

The moment we rolled into the historic district beneath towering live oaks draped with Spanish moss, the pace changed. Gone was the rush of highways and schedules. Savannah moves differently. People stroll instead of hurry. Even the warm Southern air seems designed to encourage visitors to breathe a little deeper and stay a little longer.

We checked into The DeSoto Savannah on a beautiful, hot afternoon, and the city was absolutely glowing. Though it was still spring, temperatures felt fully summer-like. Outdoor patios buzzed with energy, and visitors filled the sidewalks exploring one of America's most atmospheric cities.

The DeSoto immediately impressed us with its welcoming Southern hospitality and ideal location within Savannah's historic district. From there, much of Savannah unfolds naturally on foot. Historic squares, restaurants, churches, galleries and River Street all feel connected through the city's wonderfully walkable layout. Our chic accommodations offered stunning views across the city skyline, providing the perfect introduction to Savannah's timeless beauty.

After settling in and cooling down for a bit, we headed over to Franklin's for iced coffee, easing into Savannah's relaxed rhythm while watching afternoon life unfold around us. Savannah feels made for moments like these—lingering at a café table beneath the Southern heat while horse-drawn carriages pass in the distance and visitors wander leisurely through the historic district.

Savannah is endlessly photogenic, but more importantly, it feels authentic. Unlike some historic destinations that can seem overly polished or curated for tourists, Savannah still feels lived in. Locals sit on porches. Students weave through the squares on bicycles. Dogs nap beneath café tables. Music drifts from open windows. The city's beauty comes not from perfection but from texture, history and atmosphere.

Dinner on our first evening took us to Public Kitchen & Bar, just steps from The DeSoto and one of the city's lively downtown dining spots. Savannah's culinary scene has evolved tremendously in recent years, blending classic Southern traditions with modern influences, and Public captured that energy beautifully. The restaurant buzzed with conversation while maintaining the relaxed Southern ease Savannah does so well. Naturally, we ordered shrimp and grits—rich, comforting and served with the kind of Southern hospitality that Savannah seems to perfect.

After dinner, we wandered through the historic district on foot, one of the true pleasures of visiting Savannah. Warm evening air drifted through the squares while carriage horses clip-clopped over old streets in the distance. Gas lamps glowed softly against brick buildings and wrought-iron balconies. Couples strolled beneath giant oaks while visitors paused beside fountains, monuments and churches to photograph the fading light. Savannah at night feels romantic without trying too hard.

The city's famous squares are perhaps its greatest treasure. Designed in the 18th century, they create pockets of calm beauty throughout the historic district. Each square feels slightly different. Some are grand and formal, while others feel intimate and almost secretive. Massive live oaks stretch overhead as Spanish moss sways gently in the evening breeze.

Back at The DeSoto Savannah, we settled in knowing we had only just begun exploring the city. --- The following morning started with an excellent breakfast at the hotel's 1540 Room restaurant. Southern breakfasts are rarely rushed affairs, and this one set the tone perfectly for another day in Savannah.

Fantastic omelets, fresh coffee, warm hospitality and a relaxed atmosphere made it easy to linger before heading out. Unfortunately, temperatures had dropped nearly twenty degrees overnight, and light rain was forecast on and off throughout the day—perhaps explaining why our accommodations thoughtfully included umbrellas.

After breakfast, we boarded one of Savannah's famous Old Town Trolley tours, which turned out to be one of the highlights of our visit. On a chilly morning, it was the perfect way to explore the city. Our guide, Michael, a British transplant, proudly recognized as "Conductor of the Year 2024," brought Savannah to life through storytelling, humor and an obvious affection for his city. As the trolley rolled slowly beneath canopies of giant oak trees draped in Spanish moss, Savannah's layers of history began unfolding around us. Elegant mansions stood beside churches and hidden gardens. Michael shared stories of the city's founding, Civil War history, architecture, ghost legends and colorful residents from centuries past.

What struck us most was how seamlessly history remains woven into everyday life here. Savannah is not frozen in time behind museum ropes. People actually live in these historic homes. Restaurants occupy buildings hundreds of years old. Students from the Savannah College of Art and Design move between classrooms housed in restored mansions and former churches.

Lunch brought us down to bustling River Street and Huey's On the River, one of the waterfront's longtime favorites. River Street itself is one of the South's most fascinating urban waterfronts. Old cotton warehouses line cobblestone streets while enormous cargo ships glide silently along the Savannah River just yards away. Huey's carries strong New Orleans influences, fitting since its owner relocated from Louisiana decades ago. Sitting near the river, watching ships pass while enjoying lunch, felt quintessentially Savannah.

One standout dish was the fried green tomato muffuletta—rich, indulgent and full of personality. And, of course, there were the restaurant's signature New Orleans-style beignets buried beneath what felt like a snowstorm of powdered sugar. Savannah's food scene understands comfort deeply, but it also knows how to layer flavors and cultures together naturally.

After lunch, we explored two of Savannah's most entertaining attractions, each revealing another layer of the city's colorful personality. First came the American Prohibition Museum, where interactive exhibits, vintage décor and fascinating stories transported visitors back to the Roaring Twenties when bootlegging, speakeasies and hidden cocktails became part of American culture. Savannah, with its historic taverns and rebellious streak, feels like the perfect city for such an experience.

Later, we continued to the Pirates' House district, where exhibits exploring Savannah's maritime history immersed visitors in tales of privateers, legends and adventures from the high seas. Given Savannah's important coastal location and centuries of shipping history, pirate lore feels deeply woven into the city's identity. The exhibits added a playful yet historically rich dimension to our understanding of Savannah.

Upon stepping off Savannah's Old Town Trolley, we practically walked straight into the Old Savannah Distillery —and of course Marcus wasn't about to pass by without stopping for a tasting. Savannah may be famous for its history and moss-draped squares, but apparently a little moonshine diplomacy belongs on the itinerary as well.

That evening, my husband treated me to a belated Mother's Day dinner at Savannah's iconic Olde Pink House. Even on a rainy Tuesday night, the restaurant was buzzing from the moment we walked in—a testament to the enduring popularity of this Savannah institution.

The highlight from the start was the warm biscuits prepared by Ms. Bridget, easily some of the most flavorful and perfectly textured biscuits we've enjoyed in quite some time. I ordered the evening special: flounder stuffed with crab meat, served with mashed potatoes, pan gravy and French beans. Marcus chose the famous chicken pot pie.

Dessert, however, completely stole the show. The praline basket was absolutely wonderful and one of those desserts you keep talking about long after dinner ends. It was the perfect ending to a memorable Savannah evening in a beautiful historic setting.

Takeaway

Savannah is not simply a place to visit—it is a city with heart and soul. Southern hospitality is woven into its very fabric. Beneath the moss-draped oaks, along cobblestone streets, beside the riverfront, and within its gracious historic squares, Savannah invites you to linger rather than rush. And once you do, a part of it stays with you long after you've gone. --- visitsavannah.com